In
essence, the concept is quite simple: Purchase good beans,
roast them correctly, package them in proper packaging, brew
them at consistent weights & temperatures...
The definition of "Great coffee" should begin at the origin
of coffee, the planting of a particular varietal into a particular
growing region of the world. Some varieties of Arabica are
clearly capable of producing great coffee. There are others
that probably never will. Strains with robusta in their heritage
always seem to fall far short in flavor profile. But the definition
cannot stop there. A poorly grown, harvested or processed
arabica can still be awful in the cup. The concept of "great
coffee" must include the care given to the plant through harvest
and preparation for export. Likewise, there are regions that
have proven their ability to grow great coffees due to altitude,
latitude, soil and other attributes. Other regions have not
demonstrated such ability.
The Green Coffee Classification Chart clearly defines "Specialty
Hand-Picked"
(Click To Enlarge)
in the green bean phase: a coffee that
has no defects and has a distinctive character in the cup.
The grade just below the top, labeled as "Premium Hand-Picked,"

(Click To Enlarge)
helps to clarify the issue even further. The premium grade
also has no primary defects, but does not necessarily evidence
distinctive character. This clarification, more than any other,
helps start the definition for "Great Coffee" on the right
note. It is not only that the coffee doesn't taste bad; to
be considered for purchase by Eastern Coffee it must be notably
good.
(Click To Enlarge)
(Click To Enlarge)
(Click To Enlarge)
The next phase is roasting, and here is where there is a lot
of opportunity in our industry to continually define "Great
coffee". Every coffee in combination with every roaster has
a potential to express itself in a way that will be most satisfying
for every customer. Bringing out a coffee's distinctive character
is the roastmaster's challenge and if they come close to succeeding
then it is still sold as "gourmet" if it started out in the
green form as "gourmet". A roaster cannot take a coffee beyond
the potential it contained when it came off the tree and was
processed; but they can certainly fail to bring it close.
In roasted coffee, most agree freshness is part of the definition
for "Great Coffee". The consensus breaks down in attempting
to develop guidelines for freshness. At Eastern Coffee, we
are concerned that there are no established technical standards
for evaluating this facet of coffee quality. Many Wholesale
Roasters contend that today's packaging technology greatly
expands the period of time into many months. Beyond the issue
of "who is right" in this debate lies the more compelling
question of "how do we decide." In order to find consensus
on the first question, we have to reach agreement on the second.
It is true that good coffee, well-roasted, and packaged in
conditions that prevent oxidation, will brew up a flavorful
cup of coffee. The scientific question is whether the packaging
can retain the aromatic properties of the coffee that helped
make it "special". Our experience as a Coffee Roaster suggests
that "while the tongue may tell, only the nose knows for certain."
Therefore, if the coffee is not highly aromatic then it no
longer deserves to be called "Great Coffee."
Then
there is the brewing phase.There
are many ways in which you can extract the most flavorful
soluble materials of roasted coffee into water, and they are
best-organized into methods of how the water moves. Steeping
methods like the French Press give a different flavor of beverage
than drip methods or espresso, even when you use the same
coffee. All are capable of brewing beverages that can qualify
as "Great Coffee", but only if done correctly. The right recipe
of coffee to water, the right grind suited to the method and
the coffee's physical characteristics, the proper water temperature
and contact time, a good preparation of the coffee "bed" or
"cake" are all fundamentals that must be satisfied to produce
a "Great cup of Coffee." . It takes several hours of trial
and testing before any combination of brewer and grinder is
fit to brew a perfect cup. Unfortunately, many coffee companies
do not allocate enough investment in training and quality
control to meet the standards for brewing "Great Coffee."

There are some great stories and marvelous promotions out
there in our industry from people claiming that they have
the "best" coffee, and that they work hard to produce "Gourmet
Coffee." It does take a lot of work to produce "Gourmet Coffee",
and it is not always tangibly clear (especially to the managing
accountants and financial investors) that the customers can
tell the difference. There is sometimes a tendency to rely
more upon telling a good story and creating a good promotion
than putting out all of the effort that is required to offer
"Great Coffee" consistently. But, it is our opinion that those
who will succeed in the long term, building a loyal clientele
and generate a healthy and sustainable return on investment
for their company, are going to be the ones who are devote
much attention and resources to quality control and consistency.
"Great Coffee" is, in the end, defined in the cup. It takes
many steps to deliver that cup into the customers' hands.
Each of those steps can uphold the classification of "Great
Coffee" if quality has been maintained throughout all the
preceding steps. Given all of the effort that it takes to
produce "Great Coffee", and given how pleasurable such a cup
can be, we should all jealously guard our definition for it,
protect its meaning and credibility, and only use the word
"Great Coffee" when it truly is.

Quality
is not a commodity that can be sacrificed for profit. it is
our most valuable asset and our greatest resource...
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